Broad Peak
| Broad Peak | |
|---|---|
| Faichan Kangri ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་ |
|
 Broad Peak from Concordia |
|
| Elevation | 8,051 m (26,414 ft) Ranked 12th (4th in Pakistan) |
| Prominence | 1,701 m (5,581 ft) |
| Listing | Eight-thousander, Ultra |
| Location | |
  Broad Peak
|
|
| Location | Gilgit-Baltistan (Pakistan)/ (China) |
| Range | Karakoram |
| Climbing | |
| First ascent | June 9, 1957 by an Austrian team |
| Easiest route | snow/ice climb |
Broad Peak (originally named K3), known locally as Faichan Kangri (ཨིྰན་ཨངརི་), is the 12th highest mountain on Earth. The literal translation of "Broad Peak" to Phalchan Kangri is not accepted among the Balti people.[1]
Contents |
Geography
Broad Peak is part of the Gasherbrum massif on the border of Pakistan and China. It is located about 8 kilometres (5 miles) from K2. Broad Peak was originally named K3 right after the naming of K2 but on closer inspection by a later party, it was discovered that the summit was over 1½ kilometres (1 mile) long, thus "Broad Peak".[2]
Climbing history
The first ascent of Broad Peak was made on June 9, 1957 by Fritz Wintersteller, Marcus Schmuck, Kurt Diemberger, and Hermann Buhl of an Austrian expedition led by Marcus Schmuck. A first attempt by the team was made on May 29 where Fritz Wintersteller and Kurt Diemberger reached the forepeak (8,030m). This was also accomplished without the aid of supplemental oxygen or high altitude porters and without base camp support.[1]
On the same expedition, Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller made a flash first ascent of Skil Brum peak (7,360m) on June 19, 1957 in pure Alpine style in 53 hours.[1]
Hermann Buhl fell to his death when he and Diemberger attempted to climb nearby Chogolisa peak (7,654m) on June 27, 1957.[1]
The summit of Broad Peak has been descended on skis.
In July 2007 an Austrian mountaineering team climbed Broad Peak for retrieving the corpse of Markus Kronthaler, who had died on the mountain one year before, from over 8,000 metres.
Simone Moro has been on two winter expeditions to Broad Peak. None of the five 8000 meter peaks in Pakistan have been climbed in the winter.
In the winter and summer of 2009 there were no summits. There was one winter expedition by a Polish-Canadian team. In the summer there was one fatality, Cristina Castagna.
Time line
- 1954 First attempt by Dr. Karl Herligkoffer of Germany on the SW side that failed due to a storm and extreme cold.[1]
- 1957 First ascent [3]
- 1994 On July 9, Carlos Carsolio got the summit establishing a new solo route, now known as Route Carsolio. The summit of Broad Peak would be the ninth of his career-high of eight-thousanders.[4]
See also
- List of mountains in Pakistan
- Highest Mountains of the World
- List of Austrian mountaineers
- Hassan sadpara
References
- ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 "Broad Peak: Some background and History". Everest News. http://www.everestnews.com/stories024/bphistory.htm.
- ↑ "Broad Peak". Peakware World Mountain Encyclopedia. http://www.peakware.com/peaks.html?pk=389.
- ↑ First ascent
- ↑ http://broadpeak.org/en/broad_peak.php
Further reading
- Richard Sale, Broad Peak, 2004. English published by Carreg Ltd in the UK. ISBN 0-9538631-1-5
- Marcus Schmuck, Broad Peak 8047m Meine Bergfahrten mit Hermann Buhl, 1958. German published by Verlag "Das Bergland-buch" in Salzburg/Stuttgart.
- Zvezdnate noči (Starry Nights) by Dušan Jelinčič, ISBN / EAN: 961-6387-75-8
- Anna Czerwińska Broad Peak'83 tylko dwie (Broad Peak'83 only two) "Sport i Turystyka", Warszawa 1989, ISBN 83-217-2658-5
External links
- First Ascent: The official Website of the Austrian OEAV Karakoram expedition 1957 on BroadPeak.org
- History of First Ascent and Related Literature from Canadian Alpine Journal
|
|||||